Help Atomic CR:412 Bindings

Hi:

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just purchase a set of Atomic Skis
with CR:412 bindings at a ski swap. I need to move the bindings to match my
boots. The binding attached to a plate on the ski with pre-drilled hole in
various locations for mounting the bindings. I cant figure hot how to change
the position. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.

Telus wrote:

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just purchase a set of Atomic Skis
with CR:412 bindings at a ski swap. I need to move the bindings to match my
boots. The binding attached to a plate on the ski with pre-drilled hole in
various locations for mounting the bindings. I cant figure hot how to change
the position. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.

Standard answer: Take 'em to a qualified ski tech and have the work
done. It'll cost about 20 to 30 bucks, far cheaper than the
deductable on your insurance.

Don't try to do it yourself. See the previous thread "Rossi DIN
settings" for more info.

--
// Walt
//
// There is no Volkl Conspiracy

"Telus" wrote in message
news:hQjcd.13245$_u6.8681@edtnps89...
Hi:

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just purchase a set of Atomic Skis
with CR:412 bindings at a ski swap...

If they're Atomic skis with a pre-drilled plate, it should be somewhat
obvious. There are (most likely) three sets of holes in the front, and three
sets in the rear. Each set is marked for a range of sole lengths. If you're
currently mounted in the wrong set of holes, you take the screws out of the
plate and re-mount.

The basics:
1 - Mount toe-track, with toe attached, in correct set of front holes.
2 - Mount heel-track, with heel attached, in correct set of rear holes.
3 - Lock the steel band from the heel to the fixture from the toe at the
mark that corresponds to your sole length.
4 - Fine-tune forward pressure with the screw on the heel.

If you're not confident you know what you're doing, just take it to a shop.
It shouldn't cost more than $40 (it should really cost a lot less, but
they'll probably charge you the standard rate for mounting, even though
mounting Atomic bindings to an Atomic plate is much easier than "standard").

Hi SJ:

Thanks for your response. You are right, the skis do have the holes, as you
suggest (I checked out a pair of skis that didn't have the bindings). I
should have been more clear in my original post, what I'm trying to figure
out is how to remove the bindings (once I get them off, I'm sure I'll be
able to figure out how to get them back on). There is usually a trick to
removing the 'plastic' cover pieces that conceal the mounting screws -
that's what I need to know.

Thanks again for your tips.

One more thing, there is a marke on my boots that show the midpoint of the
sole of the boot. Usually this is suposed to line up with a mid point mark
(or some other designation point) on the ski. There does seem to be such a
mark on the Atomic skis. Am I correct that the marks are to be line up as
closely as possible when setting the binding?


"sjjohnston" wrote in message
...
"Telus" wrote in message
news:hQjcd.13245$_u6.8681@edtnps89...
Hi:

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just purchase a set of Atomic Skis
with CR:412 bindings at a ski swap...

If they're Atomic skis with a pre-drilled plate, it should be somewhat
obvious. There are (most likely) three sets of holes in the front, and
three sets in the rear. Each set is marked for a range of sole lengths. If
you're currently mounted in the wrong set of holes, you take the screws
out of the plate and re-mount.

The basics:
1 - Mount toe-track, with toe attached, in correct set of front holes.
2 - Mount heel-track, with heel attached, in correct set of rear holes.
3 - Lock the steel band from the heel to the fixture from the toe at the
mark that corresponds to your sole length.
4 - Fine-tune forward pressure with the screw on the heel.

If you're not confident you know what you're doing, just take it to a
shop. It shouldn't cost more than $40 (it should really cost a lot less,
but they'll probably charge you the standard rate for mounting, even
though mounting Atomic bindings to an Atomic plate is much easier than
"standard").

Telus wrote:
No offence, but Walt, give me a break, please. It never amazes me how
gullible some people are! "Qualified Ski Tech"? Only some cadavers would
fail to qualify for that designation.

"Don't try to do it yourself". LOL, that's funny. Keep it up Walt.

Hey, they're your skis and they're your tibias. Do whatever you want.
If you don't want to follow my free advice, that's your prerogative.

But let me ask you a question: Do you have access to the test
equipment to verify proper release characteristics?

Since you seem to be such an expert, you probably know that what's
important isn't that the DIN indicator says 7 (or whatever), it's the
*measured* torque that causes the binding to release. In my case, the
toes should release at 58 Newton-Meters and the heel should release at
229 Newton-Meters. Do you know how to calculate those numbers? Do
you know how to *measure* it? Or are you just setting the DIN
indicator and hoping for the best?

I agree with you that adjusting bindings isn't exactly rocket science
- anybody with a moderate level of mechanical aptitude (i.e. somebody
who knows the difference between pozidrive and phillips head screws)
can move the toe and heelpiece, set the preload, and adjust the DIN
indicator. But what the average garage do-it-youselfer can't do is
*test* the work once it's done. That's why I tell people not to do it
themselves.

You wanna ski on untested bindings? I'd say you've got a 95 to 99%
chance of being OK, assuming you've done everything else right. So,
are you feeling lucky?


--
// Walt
//
// There is no Volkl Conspiracy

Telus wrote:

See above. I guesss everytime I've ever skiied, the binding have been
untested - if your version of 'testing' means that stoned , hungover ski
tech should have set the DIN.

You're doing it wrong - don't give your tech the beer until after he's
done the job; then you won't have a hungover tech...

Telus wrote:

PS: I havn't the foggiest idea what 'pozidrive' is (I think you really mean
TORX).

(P.S. Missed your comment on first read

Maybe you should stay away from bindings until you do have a foggy
notion what "posidrive" is. Otherwise you're likely to strip your
mounting screw heads.

"Telus" wrote

But let me ask you a question: Do you have access to the test equipment to verify proper release characteristics?

Do I have the latest equipment ? - NO. Have I ever, in 40 years of hard core skiing ever seen a 'tech' use such equipment? - NO.
Have you, or has your tech succumbed to the, what's your weight, your age, style of skiing, etc, and look the DIN setting up on a
chart that comes with the binding?

Looks like some of the posters here have a problem of finding a good
ski shop.. Are you guys all from places were there are no big
mountains around? 'Cause both in San Francisco and Seattle I had
no problem finding _really_ knowledgeable and generally good people
to look after my equipment.

I mean, all of the stuff that you've mentioned is _common sense_
at least between my friends and the shop people we use, so it
kinda surprises me that you're even quesioning that. OF COURSE
my "new" used skis with bindings will be tested for true DIN
performance with a special measuring tool, OF COURSE the shop
tech will set the binding via the table based on all of the
parameters required.

"Dmitry" wrote in message
news:M8Wcd.387098$mD.83107@attbi_s02...


Looks like some of the posters here have a problem of finding a good
ski shop.. Are you guys all from places were there are no big
mountains around? 'Cause both in San Francisco and Seattle I had
no problem finding _really_ knowledgeable and generally good people
to look after my equipment.

I mean, all of the stuff that you've mentioned is _common sense_
at least between my friends and the shop people we use, so it
kinda surprises me that you're even quesioning that. OF COURSE
my "new" used skis with bindings will be tested for true DIN
performance with a special measuring tool, OF COURSE the shop
tech will set the binding via the table based on all of the
parameters required.

for someone who's been on one set of skis one time your giving alot of
advice ?

"Lucky" wrote

for someone who's been on one set of skis one time your giving alot of advice ?

What exactly is the problem? BTW, I was asking a question, not
giving advice.